An early departure from Tbilisi on a private transfer through the Georgian countryside. The route winds through the Svaneti region, gaining altitude as it follows the Enguri river valley into the mountains. The driver will make stops along the way for food, fuel, and scenic viewpoints — a great introduction to the landscape before the trek begins. Arrive in Mestia in the late afternoon with time to explore the town, sort gear, and rest. Note: transfer is paid in cash (GEL).
The gentlest day of the trek. You leave Mestia's main square, cross the river and follow a dirt track that climbs slowly through light forest and wide-open pastures. The reward comes early: a viewpoint above the Mulkhura valley framing Mt. Tetnuldi. From there the trail descends through a string of quiet villages — Zardlashi, Zhamushi, Cholashi — before arriving at Chvabiani and Zhabeshi, two adjacent villages packed with guesthouses. The upper "Lakhiri variant" adds 2–3 km but passes one of Svaneti's most photogenic and untouched villages.
Spring water throughout Svaneti is generally clean and drinkable.
After the ruined buildings ~halfway through, watch for the hiking signpost pointing right toward Zhabeshi — it's easy to miss. Before Zardlashi village, a second pointer diverts you onto a steep forest shortcut; it reconnects to the main road in under 10 minutes.
A family-run guesthouse in Zhabeshi, one of the most popular overnight stops on the trek. Expect home-cooked Georgian meals, warm hospitality, and simple but comfortable rooms. Half-board (breakfast + dinner) is the standard arrangement.
The shortest day in distance but the steepest in gain. From Zhabeshi you climb steadily south through pastures and dense low forest, eventually reaching the Tetnuldi ski resort's cable car line at ~2,500 m. Just above, the Tkharpel hut café marks the high point — a welcome rest stop with cold drinks and views of wildflower meadows. The trail then descends into a hidden valley and Adishi suddenly appears below the slope, almost invisible until the last moment, with the blue tongue of the Adishi glacier behind it.
The upper trail variant (traversing the base of Tetnuldi) offers even better views but the final descent to Adishi is very steep and knee-punishing. Take this only if your knees are strong and you have poles.
Adishi is the most isolated village on the entire route. Accommodation is limited and owners can be brusque — patience helps. Panorama guesthouse is widely considered the best option.
Run by Gunter Avaliani, his wife Zaira, and their daughters Nana and Jameki. One of the most characterful stays on the route — the family is genuinely friendly and known for excellent meals. Facilities are basic (this is Adishi), but the warmth of the hosts more than makes up for it. Nana speaks English. On good nights, expect singing and music around the table.
The most dramatic — and demanding — day. It begins with the Adischala river crossing near the glacier (the crux of the entire trek), then climbs through rhododendron fields to the Chkhunderi pass at 2,655 m, rewarded with sweeping views of the Adishi glacier. A long, easier descent follows the Khaldechala river valley all the way to Iprali. Khalde village, about halfway down, is a scenic and increasingly popular overnight alternative to Iprali, offering smaller crowds and better mountain views.
Leave Adishi early — by 7–8 am if possible. The river is fed by glacial melt and rises significantly as the day warms. Morning is the only safe window for independent crossing. In the afternoon, levels can become impassable.
Walk ~50 m upstream from where horses wait — the river often braids there and may be fordable on your own. Use poles, face upstream at an angle, and go one at a time. If you're uncertain, pay for the horse (25 GEL pp) — it's worth it. This is not a place to take unnecessary risks: the current is strong and the water is freezing.
Situated in Lalkhori, in the Khaldechala valley on the descent from Chkhunderi pass — a quieter, less-trafficked alternative to Iprali further down the road. Staying here splits the trek's difficulty more evenly and puts you in a more remote setting with better valley views. It also gives you a slightly shorter Day 4 into Ushguli.
A fitting finale — moderate effort, maximum payoff. Cross the Khaldechala bridge immediately out of Iprali, then climb steeply to Davberi village and follow a hillside traverse at ~2,100 m with open views north. The trail gradually descends through forest to join the main road briefly, before turning onto a quieter path through Murkmeli — one of Ushguli's four communities. You arrive at Chazhashi hamlet, the medieval heart of Ushguli, with its cluster of Svan defensive towers silhouetted against Mt. Shkhara (5,193 m). If you can, stay the night: Shkhara's reflection in the morning light is the best view on the whole trek.
The shortcut trail right after the Iprali bridge may be fenced off — if so, follow the main road for ~10 minutes to the stone footbridge below Davberi. There is a hiking sign. On the hillside, the trail marking is sparse; follow faint sledge track remains and take the left fork at the only junction in the forest.
Shared taxis back to Mestia depart from Ushguli around 3 pm. A local "taxi mafia" operates here — some drivers may pressure you; if you want to avoid them, walk out of the village toward Iprali first and flag down minivans with daytrippers (a bit cheaper, ~20 GEL vs 40 GEL).
After arriving in Ushguli and exploring the medieval towers and Shkhara views, head back to the main square to catch the shared transfer to Mestia. Depart no later than 1 pm to ensure you're back in Mestia in time for the onward private transfer to Tbilisi at 4 pm. The drive takes roughly 1.5–2 hours on an unpaved mountain road.
After arriving back in Mestia from Ushguli, you'll have 1 to 1.5 hours before the private transfer departs at 4 pm. The driver will make stops along the way for food, fuel, and photo opportunities. Expect to arrive in Tbilisi late evening. Note: transfer is paid in cash (GEL).